Old vs. New, East vs. West, Community vs. City...an Adventure in Malaysia

Hello again! Sorry, I've been in Malaysia without internet access and haven't blogged in a while. However, the following is my blog that I had to write for the official UNC SEAS website. It, along with other students' blogs from every week can be viewed at www.unchost.org/seas if you're interested! So without further ado, my blog:

....


I title this entry as such because my experience in Malaysia showed me that in many ways, it is a country of contrasts and contradictions: a nation of ancient tradition and modern industrialization, of Western influence within Eastern orientation, and of community values hidden amongst big city life.

Driving across the bridge from Singapore to the Malaysia was one of the most serene and refreshing moments I’ve had on this adventure so far. Lush greenery and palm trees spread as far as the eye could see, reminding us of the beautiful tropical landscape that is missing from metropolitan Singapore, but which makes areas throughout Southeast Asia absolutely stunning. Though the flora and fauna were nothing like back home in North Carolina, I felt as if I were driving home—coming back into contact with a lush, green landscape I didn’t know I had been missing in Singapore.

Yet I soon was presented with the realization that I was not driving home at all, and in fact was miles away from anything familiar. Exiting our picturesque highway and arriving in Kuala Lumpur, I witnessed the first evidence that I was no longer in a First World nation. Insane traffic jams, dilapidated buildings and visible poverty welcomed us to our new destination. And our first stop: Chinatown. Trying to push my way through crowded streets amongst hawkers selling me knock-off movies, food, massages, souvenirs and really anything else I wanted was one of the most overwhelming events I’ve experienced since arriving in Asia. Exhausted from the long trip and confused without bearings within the city, it was the first time that I have ever wanted to turn around and go back. But I didn’t, and that is the best lesson I’ve learned in traveling. By staying, I fell in love with Malaysia, learning so much more about a truly fascinating culture, and one to which I would love to later return.

We traveled to three main places during our travels in Malaysia, all exceptionally beautiful in their own ways: KL (that’s the local lingo for Kuala Lumpur), Taman Negara (the national rainforest of Malaysia) and Melacca—or Melaka if you wish (a historic town south of KL). KL is lined with temples, mosques and colonial architecture, yet intermixed with modern buildings, Porsche dealerships and skyscrapers like the Petronas Twin Towers. Taman Negara was my favorite park of the trip: a natural beauty and a step back in time to the oldest rainforest in the world, with a Western resort on one side of the river contrasting a small, Eastern village with floating restaurants and shops on the other. Melacca was somewhere in-between. Though the town is showing signs of growing towards big city life, I was charmed and put at complete ease by its community feeling, as we were serenaded by a local restaurant owner during an outdoor night festival.

Still, Malaysia is not without drawbacks. But neither is any nation. Just outside KL, we visited Selamat Datang, an old rubber plantation village now being demolished as part of a larger economic resettlement plan. The poverty and wreckage in this place were astounding, reminding me of the harsh reality of life in a developing country. But as we walked amongst the village, adults and children came out of their houses and schools in droves, all curious to see what was going on. Slowly, they began to converse amongst one another and a self-taught English speaker from one home came out and gave us the grand tour of what he prided himself in calling his village: the place where he had grown up; the place where he had built a family and a community. Despite the poverty, he had pride in his community and was fighting for it with everything he could muster. And though I fear his efforts likely will be unsuccessful and the village will eventually be demolished, I found a sense of identity, self-respect and community that defines Malaysia. It is a struggling nation, but a beautiful nation.

I couldn’t be more thankful that I didn’t turn around and go back. Though Malaysia struggles to fight its way into the fully-industrialized world, clean out government corruption and form a true sense of national identity, it holds a natural beauty and charm that is unparalleled with any other place I’ve experienced. Momentarily lagging behind my group for a moment of solidarity in the rainforest in Taman Negara, I gazed up at an untouched landscape, free from the footprint of man. Standing in that place, I have never felt less alone—a stark contrast to Singapore where one can feel completely isolated in a city of millions. This is why I love Malaysia: the contrast and the contradictions, and the experiences I discovered when I didn’t turn back.

......


I hadn't worked pictures into that blog, so here are some for added fun. I had an incredibly hard time deciding which ones to put on here...Malaysia is beautiful!!! I have many, many more to show when I get home. By the way, these are in reverse order of our trip, sorry.

A city street in Melacca, the historical city in Malaysia. This is just down the road from the hotel.

The ruins of the first protestant church in Melacca, built during the Dutch colonial rule.

Remember the days of bound feet? Probably not, but back in the day it was widely practiced in Malaysia. This local shoemaker still makes them just for show. They cost hundreds of dollars. Amazing, but I don't think I could get my big toe in that. I can't even imagine...

Arrival in Taman Negara, the national rainforest. This was our ferry across the river to the resort. Local villagers drove the way, miraculously without sinking the boat.

The view of the village from across the river on the hotel side. Those are floating restaurants and shops you see out front. For one ringgot (about $0.30 American), you could ride via rowboat from one place to the next.

This stood outside the hotel. And it's not joking. There were wild boar too. If you woke up and found a monkey or a boar on your front door stoop, you went out the back door. These things were viscious. More to come on them later.

The oldest rainforest in the world, they say. Untouched. This was the view from the captain's seat aboard our boat, with our steering guide in the front. We rode in those little boats that are about 6 inches tall that you see on the discovery channel. BEAUTIFUL!

Atop the canopy walk. We're standing well above the treetops below, supported by an aluminum ladder and a 2-by-4. A little sketchy and a little wobbly, but got us across! And I met a German guy in front of me, so we spoke German the whole way! Small world...

We hiked to the top of a mountain. The most ridiculously strenuous thing I've ever done. About half the group didn't make it. But this is our absolute joy at making it about 3/4 the way up.
And my pure amazement at reaching the top. That is completely untouched rainforest you're looking at. Indigenous people are its only inhabitants.

The Batu Caves, outside of Kuala Lumpur, the capital city. It's a massive Hindu shrine, with ridiculously steep steps.
Our really, really mature group inside the caves. Yea...

You know how I said there was more about the monkeys? Yea, this one bit one of the guys in our group. Attacked and bit him. In all seriousness. We had to take him to a sketchy Malaysian health clinic and his whole arm turned green and purple, but it all turned out well, so really, it just makes for a great story!! Of course then the monkey stole someone's camera and threw it down a flight of stairs, but that's not nearly as good of a story...

Welcome to Selamat Datong, the other side of Malaysia and the proof that it's still a second world country. This is an old rubber plantation community being bulldozed by the government. They're coming in, calling the inhabitants "squatters" (despite their living there for 80+ years) and resettling them into high rises. The few people left are fighting for their homes with all they have, but it seems to be a failing attempt. We met one self-taught English speaker who lives in the village who took us around and showed us the village. There's an amazing sense of community and pride, despite their conditions. But this demolition of the village comes after the demolition of all the rubber plantations, meaning their jobs are gone....it's a tough place to visit.

We met these kids during our walk. They attend a Tamil school in the village. Apparently we may have been the first Westerners to set foot in the village. These kids, plus about 50 others, flocked to the fence to see us. True celebrity status. I've never seen kids scream and laugh and get so excited about something in all my life. But I could go into some serious metaphors about what the fence between us meant....we were truly two worlds apart.How can you not smile at that face?Here's the end of their village. Before and after. That demolition to the left spreads for miles...
And these are the high rises replacing their homes. You can see the old dilapidated house out front and the modern buildings in the back. Some may argue that living conditions are far better in the high-rise flats, but the people fear, dread and resent their loss of community and sense of identity related to the village. Not to mention, how are you to afford the rent on the flat if they demolished your plantation--your source of income??

And back to modern Malaysia again. You wouldn't think both places existed within the same country. But such is the nature of a developing country.... These are the Petronas Twin Towers, currently the 3rd tallest buildings in the world, but soon to be outdone, I hear.

And outside the Prime Minister of Malaysia's house, or mansion rather. This is Jonathan, our Singaporean NUS guide throughout our trip. He's so great. And if you're my Mom and Dad, you've heard me talk a lot about him...

And last, but not at all least, our beloved squatter toilets. These are in every bathroom in Singapore, but along with regular toilets as well. In Malaysia....not so much. But I'm getting better at them, they just take a little coordination.

Well that is all, I guess! Hope that was long enough for you! Love you and miss you all!!

Lizzie